Of the two Chulus(East & West), Chulu West is the highest peak. Its first ascent in 1952 by a Japnese expedition. The Basecamp of this peak is situated in a small valley north of Manang, of the main trail to the Thorong La Pass.
There are several peaks close by and a part of Chulu massif but are located on the map. Thus it is difficult to differentiate between the Chulus however, the Chulu group comprises four peaks, two in the east and two in the west. Chulu West may also be called Chulu Central. There is no technical difficulty in ascending this peak but progress can be slow as the slopes are vulnerable to avalanches in a certain condition and need a long walk to the summit.
- Destination:Nepal, Peak Climbing, Annapurna Region
- Trip Grade:Moderate, Challenging
- Max Elevation:6420m
- Total Duration:14-16days
- Best Time:Mar- May & Oct - Dec
- Moderate difficulty :5 star
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu and stay in Kathmandu.
Day 02: Drive to Bulbule change vehicle from Bulbule jeep to Jagat and stay in the local guesthouse.
Day 03: Trek Jagat to Dharapani and stay
Day 04: Trek Dharapani to Chame and stay.
Day 05: Trek Chame to Pisang and stay.
Day 06: Trek Pisang to Manang and stay.
Day 07: Climbing clinic hike away from town to practice climbing and using the extra day.
Day 08: Climbing clinic and stay in Manang.
Day 09: Trek Manang to base camp and camping. Sleeping in the tent.
Day 10: Trek to High camp and camping. Sleeping in the tent.
Day 11: High camp to summit and back to Basecamp.
Day 12: Extra day if in case weather and not summit.
Day 13: Base camp to Manang and stay.
Day 14: Trek Manang to Chame and stay.
Day 15: Chame to Bulbule and stay.
Day 16: Drive to Kathmandu full day and stay in Kathmandu.
Day 17: Final departure.
- Ground transportation to from Kathmandu.
- Pick-up and drop service by private car/ van or van depending on group size.
- Jomsom – Pokhara , Pokhara – Kathmandu flight tickets.
- All meals on trek and climbing (L, D, & B/F) with tea\coffee and treated drinking water.
- 2-night hotel in Kathmandu and accommodation with breakfast basic.
- Peak permit fee, National park fees, airport charges.
- Experience climbing Sherpa guide 4:1 ratio, and Porter 2:1 ratio.
- Climbing group gear i.e.lead Rope, anchor building gear, tent, and dry food.
- Salary and insurance for our guide & porter.
- Client’s personal accident and medical insurance.
- Alcohol, Mineral water & bottle beverages.
- Personal expenses, Internet, international phone call, donation and souvenir etc.
- Guide and porter tips.
- Meals in Kathmandu (lunch & dinner).
- International flights and visas and airport charges
- Personal climbing gear and clothing.
Personal Climbing equipment:
- Climbing Shoe (plastic boots will be preferable),
- Crampons one pair,
- Lucking-1 & 1 un-lucking carabineer,
- Guide ATC-1,
- Prussic 7mm dynamic rope for safety – 1 pcs,
- Sling 8-12’ – 1
- Helmet- 1, Ice-ax -1.
We will provide comprehensive gear list on booking, and most of these items you can buy or rental in Kathmandu.
Karnali River Experience.
They say that the journey is better than the destination. That all the experiences along the way are like an accumulation of rocks along a riverbed. This story is another stone in a river.
I have known Mani Aryal for several years, meeting him in the United States, in the state of Utah. Mani and I were both on a work contract to take a group of students down Desolation & Grey Canyon on the Green River. After spending three weeks with Mani I knew that I made a paddling adventure buddy and that he would be a person that I actively stay in contact with. The years have a way of floating by with adventure and intentions. Every time I spoke to Mani he persistently invited me to Kathmandu to see his home and to float the rivers. Three years after saying “no”, I finally could say “maybe”.
Kathmandu is large in legend and small in structure. The shuttle ride from the airport is an example of whitewater: dodging potholes, must-make moves, and pure adrenaline. It’s best not to watch.
There are two options to get to the river when signing up for a Karnali River Expedition trip: 1) take the plane or 2) ride with the guides and gear on public transport. I was on a tight budget, so option #2 was the only way to go. Putting together a multiday river trip is always difficult, especially when you start combining buses, shuttles, and rendezvous. The first leg of the journey was via public transportation to Koholpur. The guides and I, hanging out at the main bus depot, loading all of the gear we would need for the next 12 days was a new experience indeed.
You see a lot of different people and livestock on the long distance buses. Chickens and goats are not uncommon. If a woman is standing with a baby, it’s a norm to hand a baby to you, a seated passenger, to hold the child in order to give her a break.
The second half of the shuttle was a private bus to the put-in, the small village of Dungeshor that is located straight down a canyon. The route our bus driver picked was shorter to save fuel but longer because of road conditions. Our bus rocked, creaked and moaned down the road for 8 hours only to cover 85km. “Singletrack” may be a better description than “road” as there were only inches to spare between rock walls and open air.
Sideswiping other buses, scouting rock gardens and pushing our transport were common occurrences that quickly become norms. We reached Dungeshor after 10 pm to hastily inhale some food and beer from a generous restaurant owner who opened his doors after hours. Afterward, we set up our tents on the riverbank to welcome a solid, unwavering piece of ground to usher in some sleep.
The next morning, the guides were in their prime, having already started getting breakfast ready for everyone. Mani was no exception, greeting me with a great, white smile and a coffee to help orient my mind back to my body. The biggest surprise was all of the children hanging about camp. We were all warned not to leave our gear unattended. Later that day, I realized a carabineer walked off to hang out with the children. The guides seemed to include me that much more by laughing and sharing stories of gear gone lost.
Throughout the six days, Mani and his guides were exceptional hosts. It seemed as if they never stopped moving. Always quick to put a coffee in your hand, help you set up your campsite or to offer a meal. Every morning they would barter with local fisherman to add extra flair to the menu. On the water, I felt safe and involved in the risk management. All ideas were heard until a plan formed to be implemented with everyone on board. The standard followed by Mani was professional.
Six months after this trip, the strongest memories I have are of traveling to and from the river. Once I had oars in my hand and a blue sky above me I knew who I was and how I got there.
The total trip duration from Kathmandu to Kathmandu was 10 days included bus journey.
Thank you, Mani. I look forward to our next adventure.