This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. Imja Tse peak, at height of 6160m, is more popularly by name of Island Peak. The peak was named Island peak by Eric Shipton’s team in 1953. From Dingboche, the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice.
This peak was 1st ascended in 1953 by a British team as preparation for climbing Mt Everest, Tensing Norgay was one of the members who successfully ascended.
The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the mainland from a semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar, Cho pole and Makalu lie to the east of the Island peak. Baruntse, Ama Dablam Lie to the south.
The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. Island Peak not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of the Himalayas in the Khumbu region. This is the great peak for the first time climbing in the Himalayan.
- Destination:Nepal, Everest Region
- Trip Grade:Moderate
- Max Elevation:6160m, 20423ft Island Peak
- Total Duration:19 Days
- Start & End:Kathmandu
Day 01- Arrived in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel altitude 1380m
Day 02- Fly to Lukla 35 minute altitude 2840m, and trek to Phakding altitude2610m.
Day 03- Phakding to Namche Bazaar altitude 3440m ascent 830m
Day 04- Acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar.
Day 05- Namche Bazaar to Tengboche altitude 3860m ascent 520m.
Day 06- Tengboche to Dingboche altitude 4410m ascent 550m.
Day 07- Dingboche to Chhukung altitude 4730m ascent 320m.
Day08- Chhukung to Island Base Camp altitude 4970m ascent 240m.
Day 09 to Day 10 – Learn basic climbing skills with our climbing guides including:
Rope & gear intro, rope handling, glacier walk/rig, crampon use, talk about rescue system self-arrest with/ without ice-ax, snow camping and how to use snow for drinking and cooking, fuel/ gear management, some necessary knots, safety and peak summit. We would love to have one extra day for weather and optional training
Day 11 - Extra day in case of weather.
Day 12 – Summit Peak altitude 6189m ascent 589m and back to Island base Camp altitude.
Day 13 – Trek to Chhukung and stay at Chhukung at tea house/local guesthouse.
Day 14 – Chhukung to Pangboche and stay in Pangboche.
Day 15 – Pangboche to Namche Bazaar stay in Namche Bazaar.
Day 16 - Namche Bazaar to Lukla and stay in lukla.
Day 17 - Fly to Kathmandu 35minute, and stay in Kathmandu.
Day 18 – Extra day in Kathmandu
Day 19 – Final departure to your destination
- Kathmandu – Lukla - Kathmandu returns flight tickets.
- Pick-up and drop service by private car/ van or van depending on group size.
- All meals on trek and climbing (L, D, & B/F) with tea\coffee and treated drinking water.
- 3-night hotel in Kathmandu and accommodation with breakfast basic.
- Peak permit fee, National park fees, airport charges.
- Experience climbing Sherpa guide 4:1 ratio, and Porter 2:1 ratio.
- Climbing group gear i.e. lead Rope, anchor building gear, tent and dry food.
- Salary and insurance for our guide & porter.
- Client’s personal accident and medical insurance.
- Alcohol, Mineral water & bottle beverages.
- Personal expenses, Internet, international phone call, donation, and souvenir etc.
- Guide and porter tips.
- Meals in Kathmandu (lunch & dinner).
- International flights and visas and airport charges
- Personal climbing gear and clothing.
Personal Climbing equipment you should have:
- Climbing Shoe (plastic boots will be preferable),
- Crampons one pair,
- Lucking-1 & 1 un-lucking carabineer,
- Guide ATC-1,
- Prussic 7mm dynamic rope for safety – 1 pcs,
- Sling 8-12’ – 1
- Helmet- 1, Ice-ax -1.
Karnali River Experience.
They say that the journey is better than the destination. That all the experiences along the way are like an accumulation of rocks along a riverbed. This story is another stone in a river.
I have known Mani Aryal for several years, meeting him in the United States, in the state of Utah. Mani and I were both on a work contract to take a group of students down Desolation & Grey Canyon on the Green River. After spending three weeks with Mani I knew that I made a paddling adventure buddy and that he would be a person that I actively stay in contact with. The years have a way of floating by with adventure and intentions. Every time I spoke to Mani he persistently invited me to Kathmandu to see his home and to float the rivers. Three years after saying “no”, I finally could say “maybe”.
Kathmandu is large in legend and small in structure. The shuttle ride from the airport is an example of whitewater: dodging potholes, must-make moves, and pure adrenaline. It’s best not to watch.
There are two options to get to the river when signing up for a Karnali River Expedition trip: 1) take the plane or 2) ride with the guides and gear on public transport. I was on a tight budget, so option #2 was the only way to go. Putting together a multiday river trip is always difficult, especially when you start combining buses, shuttles, and rendezvous. The first leg of the journey was via public transportation to Koholpur. The guides and I, hanging out at the main bus depot, loading all of the gear we would need for the next 12 days was a new experience indeed.
You see a lot of different people and livestock on the long distance buses. Chickens and goats are not uncommon. If a woman is standing with a baby, it’s a norm to hand a baby to you, a seated passenger, to hold the child in order to give her a break.
The second half of the shuttle was a private bus to the put-in, the small village of Dungeshor that is located straight down a canyon. The route our bus driver picked was shorter to save fuel but longer because of road conditions. Our bus rocked, creaked and moaned down the road for 8 hours only to cover 85km. “Singletrack” may be a better description than “road” as there were only inches to spare between rock walls and open air.
Sideswiping other buses, scouting rock gardens and pushing our transport were common occurrences that quickly become norms. We reached Dungeshor after 10 pm to hastily inhale some food and beer from a generous restaurant owner who opened his doors after hours. Afterward, we set up our tents on the riverbank to welcome a solid, unwavering piece of ground to usher in some sleep.
The next morning, the guides were in their prime, having already started getting breakfast ready for everyone. Mani was no exception, greeting me with a great, white smile and a coffee to help orient my mind back to my body. The biggest surprise was all of the children hanging about camp. We were all warned not to leave our gear unattended. Later that day, I realized a carabineer walked off to hang out with the children. The guides seemed to include me that much more by laughing and sharing stories of gear gone lost.
Throughout the six days, Mani and his guides were exceptional hosts. It seemed as if they never stopped moving. Always quick to put a coffee in your hand, help you set up your campsite or to offer a meal. Every morning they would barter with local fisherman to add extra flair to the menu. On the water, I felt safe and involved in the risk management. All ideas were heard until a plan formed to be implemented with everyone on board. The standard followed by Mani was professional.
Six months after this trip, the strongest memories I have are of traveling to and from the river. Once I had oars in my hand and a blue sky above me I knew who I was and how I got there.
The total trip duration from Kathmandu to Kathmandu was 10 days included bus journey.
Thank you, Mani. I look forward to our next adventure.